| Diagram
of the front bumper attachment bolts and screws. Click to enlarge. |
 |
It's a really simple job to take off and re-install the front bumper.
The way they built this car, it's really only a 10 minute job. There are 2 pop-rivets and 13 bolts/screws that need to be removed.
They can be grouped as follows: 3 on the bottom, 4 on the top, one screw on each side inside the
wheel well, and two screws per side, for the
bottom corners of the bumper/wheel well junction.
The picture shows you which bolt/screw goes where and should help in removal. It helps even more in
reinstallation. This is one case where you DON'T want extra parts after you're done! |
| This is a
pop rivet with the head pulled out far enough to release its
hold. |
 |
The two most difficult screws are on the ends of the bumper, under the top-front of the
wheel well. The one on the
left side of the car is around 11 o'clock position, the one on the right side of the
car is around 1 o'clock position. You need to get under the plastic wheel liner. This involves getting out a large plastic
pop-rivets to give you enough room. In the picture, you can see the pop-rivet has been removed and in my fingers. I've lifted back the plastic liner
to expose the 10mm bolt/screw that holds in the ends of the bumper. Remove the pop-rivets with a Flat head
screwdriver. Remove the silver screws with a Phillips head screw driver. |
| The
underside of the bumper shows all the bottom side attachment points. Click to enlarge. |
 |
There are 7 bolt/screws on the bottom of the car holding the bumper to the
under tray and front wheel well liners.
The picture shows half the bumper, with the location of the two screws to the
wheel well liner (grey triangular tabs),
one to the side under tray (silver) and one in the middle to the under
tray (black). The other half of the bumper is the
same, adding another 3 bolt/screws. |
| Removing
the bottom side bolts. |
  |
Here are pictures of me removing the bolts on the bottom of the bumper. First shot is the rearmost bolt that holds
the bumper to the wheel well liner. Second one is the middle bolt (black) that
holds the bumper to the front under tray. Remove all 7 bolts with a 10mm Socket Wrench and set them aside. |
| The
topside left showing two of the four bolts. |
 |
This is a shot of the top of the bumper, showing the two bolts
(black) on the left side of the car. There are another pair on the other side of the latch mechanism. Remove these 4 bolts with a 10mm Socket Wrench and set them
aside. |
| Removing
the left and right sides. |
  |
Start by pulling the bumper off SLOWLY from the corners, making sure it's not stuck on the two tabs. First shot is
the left side of the car, second is the right side. Be careful, it should
come off easily without having to use too much force. |
| Partially
remove the bumper just a few inches. |
 |
Slowly pull the bumper cover off the rectangular bumper support beam. There are two larger tabs you should be
careful of (as seen next to my pinkie finger). They are more important later when you reinstall the bumper. Don't
pull the bumper off just yet because... |
| Disconnect
the wire at either the light or bumper. |
 |
...the side marker lights have wiring that is still attached. You can unclip it from either the bumper cover, or the
bumper support, it doesn't make much difference. Now would be a good time to install some clear corners, if
you're into that sort of thing. |
| So now that you have the bumper off, how about installing the Pelican Racing stainless steel grill inserts to give your Spyder that refined
look. |
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Front
Bumper Removal
