| Wiring Diagrams
|
| OEM Radio Connectors and
Pinouts |
Wire |
What
it does |
Usual
wire color (stock) |
| A |
Right
Front Speaker (+) |
Green |
| B |
Left
Front Speaker (+) |
Pink |
| C |
Ignition
Lead (+) |
Gray |
| D |
Battery
Lead (+) |
Blue
w/Yellow stripe |
| E |
Right
Front Speaker (-) |
Blue |
| F |
Left
Front Speaker (-) |
Purple |
| G |
Ground
(-) |
Black |
| H |
Power
Antenna Wire 1 |
More
information Pending |
| I |
Power
Antenna Wire 2 |
More
information Pending |
| J |
Illumination
Lead (+) |
More
information Pending |
Wire |
What
it does |
Usual
wire color (stock) |
| K |
Right
Rear Speaker (+) |
Red |
| L |
Left
Rear Speaker (+) |
Black |
| M |
Right
Rear Speaker (-) |
White |
| N |
More
information Pending |
More
information Pending |
| O |
More
information Pending |
More
information Pending |
| P |
Left
Rear Speaker (-) |
Yellow |
Wire |
What
it does |
Usual
wire color (stock) |
| Q |
This
side is for a CD Changer input harness |
More
information Pending |
| R |
More
information Pending |
| S |
More
information Pending |
| U |
More
information Pending |
| V |
More
information Pending |
| Legend |
Stock
wiring harness |
Metra
71-1761 Harness |
Aftermarket
CD Changer Harness |
|
|
|
Rear Speakers with Fader
Control
|
| For
this you need to purchase Metra Wiring Harness part number
71-1761.
Your
local audio store may have it, but from what I have found
their books tell you that you want part number 70-1761.
This is incorrect. 70-1761 will not plug into your radio
and is designed to adapt and aftermarket receiver to your
wires.
There
are 5 wires on the Metra Harness
|
 |
The
71-1761 harness is the one on the upper/left
|
|
| All
5 of them will be used.
You
will need: Wire cutter and cleaners, cable ties, soldering
iron (experience with it), electrical tape, heat shrink
tubing, a screwdriver and wrench (to remove dash panel).
Disconnect
the Battery. Remove the panel under the steering wheel.
Wiring will hold it in your way, but you can move it to
the corner of the foot well. At this point I also removed
the door sill and kick panel. The kick panel is held on by
a single hand nut in the front. Everything else is
"snap-on" and can be pulled off with the right
angling and force. I ran the wiring for the speakers this
route and up through the interior molding to the rear
storage area. The rear panel (inside to the rear of the
door) was not removed. I pulled the outside outboard
enough to feed the cable in and reached down from the
storage area to fetch it. Careful, you don't want to
interfere with the seat belt stuff at all. Make sure the
wire stays clear of it.
Wire
K,L,M and P to your rear speaker leads in order
corresponding to the above diagram. Then crawl under the
dash on the driver's side. There is a 1 wire harness on
the back of the radio. Pull this out. The release is on
the top - squeeze and pull. It works similar to a phone
jack.
The
remaining wire must be spliced with the wire in the
existing harness in the radio. You will have to do this
under the dash as it is very short. Bring a light! It is
in the "N" hole and goes to the wire in the same
location on the Metra harness
Once
you have wired up the harness with your speakers, then the
wire in the "N" hole under the dash - it's plug
and play. The harness slides into the spot left vacant
when the stock, 1 wire harness is removed. It is a small
challenge fitting it in around all of the wiring back
there, but it will go. My harness was a tight fit the
first time, but clicked in pretty easy after that. |
|
|
|
| "Mid" Control on Your Equalizer
That's right Toyota decided that hiding the Midrange adjust
button for the radio would be more entertaining than making it
obvious. If you have aftermarket speakers this little adjuster can
make the radio sound pretty good without the issues of theft
aftermarket receivers have.
This will not work with a Disc in the player
Press the right hand button in until you hear a
"beep". This takes some time
The mid-range adjustment is the very next feature past the bass
adjustment when you press the right button in to scroll through
the radio controls.
If you turn your radio off BEFORE you shut down the car, you
will lose your midrange setting. Hence the mod above
|
|
|
| Radio stays on after ignition is off |
| Once you have discovered how to use the Mid
control on your EQ you discover how much better the
factory unit is than you thought. The problem is that if
you turn off the engine before turning off the radio, you
loose the control. A little annoying.
This fix is a simple combine of 2 leads
You will need: Wire cutter and cleaners, electrical
tape, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron (experience with
it), a screwdriver and wrench (to remove dash panel).
Disconnect the Battery. You may have to remove the dash
panel to get your head behind the radio. Unplug the
larger, factory wiring harness (A-J above). The release is
on the top - squeeze and pull. It works similar to a phone
jack.
Once out, you will want to cut back the plastic sheet
over the wires that holds them together and insulates. It
is basically a plastic tube and is not tight over the
wires. I cut it about an inch back so I had better access
to the wires inside.
Look for the C and D wires from above. One is Gray and one
is Blue with a Yellow stripe (mine was actually Blue with
white checks). The Blue and Yellow wire is the one you
want for power. Cut both of the wires at the same distance
from the harness. Make sure you have enough room to re
solder them together.
You can tape off the Gray wire at the end, or use a
heat shrink tube. Make sure it can not get out and ground
itself or you could have serious problems.
Combine the other three wires. Again careful about the
ground-out issue. Once combined and sealed correctly, plug
the harness back in. You should be ready to go. |
|
|
|
Wiring an item that is only functional when ignition is
on
| I did this on my car after
doing the above "Radio stays on after ignition is
off" mod. I do not know if will work otherwise
The wire that leads to the radio from the ignition on
power supply is about 18 gauge and very thin. I wouldn't
use it for anything other that the smallest currents. It
is only designed to handle lighter loads. I wired a switch
light for my in dash garage opener with it. I also had
disconnected it from the radio so it was not carrying that
load. The fuse attached to the wire is probably also
designed for a very small load. I did not verify the fuse
type with the tiny load I was using.
You will need: Wire cutter and cleaners, electrical
tape, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron (experience with
it), a screwdriver and wrench (to remove dash panel).
Disconnect the Battery. You may have to remove the dash
panel to get your head behind the radio. Unplug the
larger, factory wiring harness (A-J above). The release is
on the top - squeeze and pull. It works similar to a phone
jack.
Once out, you will want to cut back the plastic sheet
over the wires that holds them together and insulates. It
is basically a plastic tube and is not tight over the
wires. I cut it about an inch back so I had better access
to the wires inside.
Look for the C wire from above. It is Gray cut the wire
from the harness (unless you have also done the mod
above). Make sure you have enough room to solder it
together with another wire.
Combine this lead with a wire long enough to reach the
(+) positive terminal on your electrical item. Replace the
positive wire with this one. Make sure the old wire is
either completely removed or covered enough so an
accidental ground can not take place - it would be a very
bad thing.
If you are still using this wire in the radio, also
combine the remaining wire from the harness with the Gray
lead and the new lead to the item you are powering. Again
careful about the ground-out issue. Once combined and
sealed correctly, plug the harness back in. You should be
ready to go. |
|
|
|
| Aux Inputs for an Alternate Music Source |
| This part is cool. Maker's
web site. If you have an iPod, MP3, DVD player, even a
record player (drive very carefully), you can listen to it
on your Spyder's radio. Get It Here. I discovered the
manufacturer's directions HERE.
But have a change to make it less work.
This mounts to the Q-V slots pictured above. Under INSTALLATION:
| Changes
To Manufacturers Installation Instructions |
|
2. Remove the factory radio
to gain access to the radio's 12-pin CD changer data port.
Skip this step. The port can be accessed without taking
the radio out. It is on the upper passenger side rear of
the radio. Accessible by laying upside down on the
passenger side floor (Bring a light)
5. Reinstall the factory radio.
Only if you took it out :)
|
If you have made a custom set
up for this harness, please send me pics at andy@wrenbeck.com.
I have been contemplating it, but have no set plan yet.
This adaptor works with 2000,
2001 and 2002 Spyders ONLY
|
|
|
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